Written by Madison (@runwithmadison)
As a trail runner, Lake O’Hara is one of the most spectacular and memorable places you can run in the Rockies. Taking the service road up and down, our day ended up being 40 km, 1,800 m of vertical gain, and just over seven hours on our feet. I will say that we didn’t get started until around 10 a.m., so I’d highly recommend starting earlier to maximize your time up there.
We had been camping at Lake Louise Campground, and the plan was to get up early, drive over to the Lake O’Hara parking lot, and run the 11-kilometre access road to the lake. We didn’t have a bus reservation, so we knew we’d be adding the long climb up the service road to the adventure.
Lake O’Hara is one of those places where you really need to plan ahead. Access is heavily restricted to help protect the incredible alpine environment, and day-use reservations are allocated through a random draw, with applications opening in March. Because we didn’t have a reservation, our only option was to run the access road, and honestly, that ended up being a pretty great way to experience it.
The 11-Kilometre Warm-Up
We parked at the Lake O’Hara trailhead in the morning and started running.
The access road climbs gradually for 11 kilometres toward Lake O’Hara. It's closed to private vehicles and bicycles, so for most visitors, the shuttle is the way in. For us, it became the first part of what would turn into a 40-kilometre mountain day. Calling those first 11 kilometres a warm-up might be a little generous, as you climb a decent amount within those 11 km. Plus, we were already putting distance into our legs before we had even reached the actual alpine trails. However, after 1 hour and 10 minutes of running (7:00 min/km pace), we arrived at Lake O’Hara. I have now been there twice and the turquoise water, enormous peaks, hanging valleys and perfectly carved alpine landscapes make this one of the most spectacular trail-running destinations in the Rockies. Lake O’Hara is essentially a network of trails connecting a collection of lakes, meadows, and high alpine viewpoints.
The Alpine Circuit
Once we reached the lake, we headed into the alpine and tackled the Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit, one of the classic routes in the Lake O’Hara area. The circuit climbs above Lake O’Hara, surrounded by some seriously impressive Rocky Mountain scenery. It is roughly 10–16 km in distance, with various trails and access points, as well as varying elevation gain. There are also incredible viewpoints looking back toward Lake O’Hara and across the surrounding peaks, as well as views of Lake Oesa, Opabin, Yukness Peak and so many other mountain ranges. This is the kind of terrain where you constantly want to stop running just to look around. One of the more memorable sections is the climb up toward All Souls’ Prospect. The trail gets steeper as you work your way higher, but the effort is quickly rewarded as the views open up. From the top, you get an incredible perspective back toward Lake O’Hara, with the lake sitting far below and the surrounding peaks stretching out in every direction. It’s one of those spots where you naturally stop for a few minutes to take it all in. We then descended down the backside toward Schaffer Lake, as we wanted to see McArthur Lake.
McArthur Lake
The Lake McArthur route is another spectacular trail, with the official circuit measuring about 8 km and gaining roughly 310 metres. The trail climbs through larch forests and alpine meadows before reaching McArthur Pass and eventually the incredible blue waters of Lake McArthur. And Lake McArthur is worth the effort. The colour of the water is that unmistakable Rocky Mountain blue-green, framed by rugged peaks and open alpine terrain. At this point, though, the legs were starting to know exactly how much running we had already done. We had run the 11 km road just to get to the trail network, then spent hours running around the alpine trails, and we still had to get back down the mountain.
But we had a plan.
The 4:30 p.m. bus.
We started our return to Lake O’Hara Lodge from McArthur Lake. On our way back, one of the memorable spots along the route is the Elizabeth Parker Hut, operated by the Alpine Club of Canada. The hut sits in an alpine meadow and has a fantastic mountain backdrop. It's a rustic backcountry hut rather than a luxury mountain lodge, exactly the kind of place that makes you want to spend a night up there with a pack, a sleeping bag, and absolutely nowhere else to be. It also gives you a sense of the history of the area. Lake O’Hara has long attracted mountaineers and alpine travellers, and the huts are part of that tradition. Parks Canada describes the Elizabeth Parker Hut as rustic accommodation in the beautiful meadow near the lake.
It took us roughly 45 minutes, and we got back to Lake O’Hara Lodge around 3:45 p.m.
The 4:30 Bus Gamble
We knew there was a 4:30 bus back, and being that we'd run all day, we had hoped to get back to the bus stop, hop on, and be at our cars by 5:00 p.m.
Except there was a catch. If anyone has gone to Lake O’Hara, you know that getting on a bus is a gamble. Having a scheduled outgoing bus doesn't necessarily mean you can simply show up and expect a seat. The Lake O’Hara shuttle operates with limited capacity and reservations, and Parks Canada specifically warns that access is controlled. The current schedule includes outgoing buses at 4:30 p.m., but reservations are the key to guaranteeing your ride. Unfortunately, walking on means you have to wait for the bus to come to see if you can maybe make it on. We weren't willing to gamble on getting stranded at the top, so we made the only sensible decision: we ran back down.
And Then Came the Road
The 11 kilometres back to the parking lot felt very different from the morning. In the morning, we were fresh; now, we had already spent hours running through the mountains. The legs were tired, the feet were feeling every kilometre, and the road seemed considerably longer than it had earlier that day. But there is something satisfying about finishing a huge mountain day on your own two feet. No bus, no shortcut. Just 11 kilometres of downhill gravel road and the knowledge that the car was waiting at the bottom.
By the time we reached the parking lot, we'd put together roughly 40 kilometres of running, with a big chunk of that at altitude and on technical alpine trails. It was one of those days that sits somewhere between a trail run, an endurance workout, and a questionable life decision.
What Did I Take for Such a Big Day?
If you're thinking about doing something similar, one thing I would emphasize is this: Don't treat Lake O’Hara like a normal trail run. The scenery might be beautiful, but you're in a remote mountain environment.
Bring the Ten Essentials.
That means being prepared for navigation problems, weather changes, injuries, darkness, communication issues, and an unexpectedly long day.
For a long trail-running day like this, we'd want to have:
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Navigation — map/GPS and a backup – I used my watch and phone
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Emergency supplies
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Emergency communication
And don't forget bear spray. Parks Canada specifically advises people hiking the 11-kilometre access road to be prepared with food, water, bear spray, appropriate clothing, and footwear.
The Bus Lesson
The Lake O’Hara shuttle is one of those things you should understand before you arrive. The 11-kilometre road exists specifically to limit vehicle access, and the shuttle system helps protect this incredibly sensitive alpine environment. Day-use shuttle reservations are now handled through a random draw, with applications in March. And while we had originally thought of the bus as an easy way in and out, our experience proved something important: Don't build your entire day around catching a bus unless you have a confirmed reservation. As for the price, Parks Canada currently lists the Lake O’Hara shuttle at $25.50 per person for a return trip, plus the shuttle reservation fee. So, if you've heard the old "$15 bus" number, check the current Parks Canada rates before planning your trip. Also, make sure you bring CASH!! There is no tap in the alpine!
For us, the lack of a guaranteed ride turned what could have been a shorter day into a 40-kilometre adventure, and honestly, I am glad we did it that way.
Would We Do It Again?
Absolutely. Maybe next time we'll actually win the bus lottery, or maybe we'll deliberately skip it again. There's something pretty special about earning Lake O’Hara the hard way by starting from the parking lot, running the entire access road, climbing into the alpine, chasing turquoise lakes and enormous mountain views, and eventually running all the way back out. It's a long and hard day. It's a day that requires serious planning, water, food, the Ten Essentials, and a healthy respect for the mountains, but it's also the kind of day you'll remember for a very long time.
Overall, it was one unforgettable day in the Rockies.